p.p1 that period, the symbolic features set

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This essay analyse how menswear transform through 1920s to 1930s by looking into quotes, text and  images. This was the big time, the most brilliant and depress period in decades. The majority are focusing on women when it comes to the topic fashion, cosmetics, beauty and accessories so the aim is to in depth how has mens fashion and life style had related and changed through the cultural progress and historical evolution. By not only looking at how iconic celebrities fashion style left traces in history and influence the world but also understand deeper about particular culture at the period of time. 

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Men were mostly wearing suit at that period, the symbolic features set the suit apart from other era was the highness of lapels. The image shown below (Fig.1) is mens fashion guide during 1920’s, mostly black and white chic and classy. The representative clothing of men was suit at that period, they wear it all the time and everywhere. The key of suit depending on the material, they were mostly made of thick wool or wool tweed. (Sessions, Debbie, 1920s Men’s fashion: 2017)  

Roaring Twenties is a term of Western society and Western culture that occurred during 1920s to 1929s, it was the most beautiful and glory time period of the United States and Western Europe like a miracle also was known as the “années folles” (“Crazy Years”). Reaching the peak of art, music and industrialised life style. “Similar to the flappers’ short and unshapely dress, which signaled the newfound liberation of many women in the 1920s, the gangsters’ fashions (Fig.2) echoed the historical forces at play in the early twentieth century.” (Beshears, Laura, The Journal of American Culture: 2010) The culture and the desire of expressive styling were intense created and developed a styling of “gangster fashion” One of the iconic person is Al Capone, he went become one of the most infamous gangster in american history. The story of Al Capone’s rise and drop as a Chicago criminal has continuously depended upon specific dispersal of government organization records, especially records of the Inner Income Benefit. Capone history, in this manner, is state-sanctioned history. (Calder, James, Crime, Law and Social Change: 1992) He’s usually dressing in pinstripe suits, fedoras and fancy neckties and considered as a model of the underworld fashion. Just like Al Capone, many other well known criminals of the time were dressing similar style as him, sharp suits with hats, and accessories. Coats, spectators shoes pair with watch chains and jewelry were also the signature items of rogue fashion. (Beshears, Laura, Honorable Style in Dishonorable Times: 2010)  

The golden era had ended during 1929s, darkness and storms are coming to the 1930s. In the thirties  due to the economic decline by the Great Depression, all the major industries had responded to the Depression and reducing production. (Fraser, Max, Hands off the Machine: 2013) Yet despite the crises or maybe in reaction to emotional and cultural agitation, culture during the Great Depression period was elegant, lively and escapist. (Boyer, Bruce, Elegance in an Age of Crisis: 2014) There is a book called “Elegance in an Age of Crisis if the 1930s” edited by Patricia Mears and G. Bruce Boyer indicating although the dire financial environment of 1930s, this decade gave rise to extraordinary specialized and stylish advancements in fashion industry. The image shown below (Fig.3) is shows the innovative fashion from the 1930s, which verified the statement of the book. Although the economic condition went down after few years fashion industry still went back the  level it was.  

The modern ready-made suit, is the item of a broadly recognized and well-ordered framework of manufacture, refined and democratized all through the twentieth century by high-street pioneers and universal brands, and show in the closets of numerous. Its bespoke variety proceeds to be fabricated on conventional lines, for an first class minority in the West and a more extensive group of onlookers in Asia and the creating world. Both alternatives adjust to an acknowledged set of parameters that deliver a reasonably standardized and recognizable need, nearly boring in the consistency of its frame. (Breward, Christopher, The Suit: 2016) Great depression started an extreme conservatively fashion climate by the beginning go 1930’s, to save more money men’s suits being closely cut to use less fabric so the suits became thinner and lighter as a result in the economic crisis. (Riding, Daniel, A Decade In Fashion: 2013) Changing the material of the suit also changed the future manufacturing method. 

The Decline of BespokeTailoring in Finland: Before the second world war men’s suits and coats were handmade as well as being manufactured industrially. (Kaipainen, Minna, He Who Wears a Bespoke Suit: 2015) This implied the fashion factories had developed through the years, witness the evolution of fashion. In Finland the first clothing factories were established in the end of 1910s, back then the industrial serial production method was such a novelty. The competitive environment of clothing industry worried the tailors who made bespoke and garments by hand. High qualified craftsmanship, business skills and the ability to following changing fashion trends were considered the requirements of  a successful bespoke tailor. (Kaipainen, Minna, He Who Wears a Bespoke Suit: 2015) The fashion world had became more and more competitive. The 1930s was an era with two faces, the beginning of the early year was the time of depression led to lack of financial stability however, the later years of the decade saw the return of financial improvement so less idea restricted in men’s fashion. (Riding, Daniel, A Decade In Fashion: 2013) Hollywood celebrities and actors were the main fashion influencer such as Gary Cooper, Fred Astaire, Errol Flynn, Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart (Fig.4) etc. Humphrey Bogart is the “original hard-boiled icon, Humphrey Bogart is widely regarded as the greatest actor of all time. With gathered face, a brooding attitude, an ever-present cigarette, and a sharply cut suit (or tux, or trenchcaot), Bogie would become the template for all leading men to follow.” (Gallagher, Jake: 2013) 1930s was also a time of glamour, innovative design and modernity, by developing technologies such as television, intercontinental aviation, Kodak colour film, colour film cameras and Technicolour cinema.   
As one of the fashion icon Gary Cooper also known as hollywood film actor who had passed away, his daughter Maria Janis, Cooper’s only child indicates that her father made his own clothes. “He made me a wonderful little buckskin jacket with the fringe and all of that.” Janis said. She also remembers he making”his own Indian moccasins, which he loved to wear around the house.” He would cut his own leather and stitch it. To be able to get the right fit, he would wear the shoes in warm water and let it dry around his feet. (Lewis, Andy: 2011) 

The first academics to investigate the relationship between big screen and fashion in the particular decade and most specially, Sarah Berry’s study of fashion during 1930s hollywood analysed the role from assisting the divert of ‘class’ to ‘mass’ in the ‘synergy’ driven consumption dynamism and production of fashion, alongside the style of american stars and the spectacle. (Dirix, Emmanuelle and Kirkham Neil, Fashion in 1930s Hollywood: 2014) Along with the development of film, fashion had gradually progressed and left the good time, legendary roaring twenties in and history and our hearts. We do not know what will happen next everything is changing rapidly, the only thing we can think of is to contribute to the society, it doesn’t matter with our education level or our financial situation. It is difficult to unify everyone’s ideal world, however personally I do believe and have faith in our institution and people we can always make the world a better place.  
A drift towards men’s changing sex relations and real and self-identities (the so-called ‘new man’); concurring to others, these magazines stabilize the conventional relationship between hegemonic and subordinated masculinities. Either way, the male body appears to be at the core of a concern (and a look) centred on a consumerist utilize and representation. The male body is a alluring and wanting one, concerned with health, fitness and magnificence, issues which characterize an ’embodied manly lifestyle’. (Boni, Federico: 2002) 

In conclusion, this 1920s witnessed the major shift of fashion and culture in america’s urban life. Witnessed both optimism and possibility of a better american society transform into delated but buoyant disillusionment the gangster/menswear attire both represented both ends of this spectrum. The feeling of rapid industrialisation and urbanisation of america from idealism and materialised before the turn of the century. The opinions on how to improve the society varied and subjective but earth citizens with optimistic mindset and strong believe will united and would progress the idea of better together. (Beshears, Laura, The Journal of American Culture: 2010) Like I’ve mentioned, If we keep believing and having faith of the human society, then we can optimistically expect the improvements and unlimited wisdom from each other. During 1920s to 1930s, from the best good time to the Great Depression the process was lamentable and touching. In historian Roland Marchand’s words, throughout the first half of the 1930s, “More and more advertisers sought to
empathize with, and perhaps to reflect, public concerns about economising and job insecurity.” (Fraser, Max, Hands off the Machine: 2013) Everything has it’s weakness and blindside, but the aspect changes through how you accept it, we can always turn our weak point to advantages. Your golden time is yet to come.